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Kyoto Information
Introduction
Kyoto is Japan's cultural treasure house. With an
astonishing 1600 Buddhist temples, 400 Shinto shrines,
a trio of palaces, dozens of perfectly sculptured gardens
and museums housing some 20% of Japan's National Treasures,
Kyoto ranks as one of the most culturally rich cities
on the planet. More than any other city in Japan, Kyoto
thrives on its ancient heritage. If you're seeking the
mist-shrouded enchantment of old Japan, Kyoto should be
your first stop.
While American firebombs annihilated Tokyo and nearby
Osaka during WWII, Kyoto - and its 1200 year history -
was spared. Travelers will be forced to look closely for
signs of the city's past, however, as Kyoto's ancient
facade has been swept away in a euphoric rush to modernize.
It is struggling to reconcile development with preservation,
placing the glorious living museum of old Kyoto in the
firing line.
Meanwhile, ancient tea houses sit sandwiched between high-rise
apartments, sacred shrines are tucked neatly into shopping
arcades and exquisite kaiseki restaurants compete for
customers with a growing legion of McDonald's restaurants
and pasta joints. Now is a great time to visit Kyoto:
The chequerboard of ancient and high-tech spaces has become
a high-stakes game, poised at a critical moment.
Attraction
Guide
Kyoto Imperial Palace
The Imperial Palace was built in 794 AD and, after destruction
by fires, has undergone countless rebirths. Ceremonies
related to the enthronement of a new emperor and other
state functions are still held here, and the palace is
full of priceless treasures, including sliding screens
adorned with Tosa school paintings. The hall was initially
used as living quarters for the emperor, but was later
set aside for ceremonial use only. Foreigners are given
preferential access to the palace and can usually obtain
permission to enter in a few hours (though sometimes it
can stretch to two days), while Japanese visitors - unless
accompanied by a foreigner as an interpreter - can sometimes
wait months. Twice-yearly, in spring and autumn, the palace
grounds are chock-full when the inner sanctum is opened
to the public for several days.
Kyoto Station
area
The area round Kyoto station, south of the city centre,
is a fairly drab part of town, but there are a number
of must-sees within walking distance of the train station,
itself worth a visit. Prior to 1997, the station was simply
an unassuming point of transit. Now it's a mini-city towering
16 storeys high. Massive and modern, the station is a
glass Titanic with a main concourse 27m (88ft) wide, 60m
(200ft) high and 470m (1540ft) long. The size and design
were extremely controversial, and groups such as the Buddhist
Association expressed outrage over the proposed height
and facade.
Kyoto Tower, directly north of the station, is one of
the city's greatest architectural blunders. The 131m-high
(430ft-high) tower is said to represent a 'forever burning
candle', but looks more like a misguided space rocket.
Many cite the 1964 construction of the tower as the beginning
of the end of Kyoto's once-graceful skyline.
The Nishi Hongan-ji Temple was originally built in 1272
in the Higashiyama mountains by Shinran's daughter, the
priestess Kakushin. The temple complex was relocated to
its present site in 1591 and became the headquarters of
the Jodo Shinshu (True Pure Land) religious school, which
had accumulated immense power. It is still the headquarters
of a branch of the Jodo Shinshu, with over 10,000 temples
and 12 million followers worldwide. The temple contains
five buildings featuring some of the finest examples of
the architectural and artistic achievement of the Momoyama
period.
Nanzen-ji Temple
The Nanzen-ji Temple is one of the most pleasant temples
in Kyoto, with its expansive grounds and numerous subtemples.
It began as a retirement villa for Emperor Kameyama but
was dedicated as a Zen temple on his death in 1291. Civil
war in the 15th century destroyed most of the temple;
the present buildings date from the 17th century, and
now operates as the headquarters of the Rinzai school.
At the entrance to the temple stands the massive 1628
San-mon Gate, its ceiling adorned with Tosa and Kano school
murals of birds and angels. Steps lead up to the second
storey, which has a fine view over the city. Beyond the
gate is the hojo (abbot's) hall with impressive screens
of vividly depicted tigers. Within the precincts of the
same building, the Leaping Tiger Garden is a classic Zen
garden well worth a look. While you're in the hojo, you
can enjoy a cup of tea while sitting on straw mats gazing
at a small waterfall. This is an inexpensive way to get
a quick taste of the tea ceremony in beautiful surroundings.
But perhaps the best part of Nanzen-ji is overlooked by
most visitors: a small shrine hidden in a forested hollow
behind the main precinct. Here, pilgrims pray while standing
under the waterfall, sometimes in the dead of winter.
Hiking trails lead off in all directions from this point;
by going due north, you'll eventually arrive at the top
of Mt Daimonji-yama (2 hours), and east you'll get to
Yamashina (also about 2 hours). Dotted around Nanzen-ji's
grounds are several subtemples which are often skipped
by the crowds and consequently easier to enjoy.
Mt Hiei-zan & Enryaku-ji Temple
A visit to the 848m-high (2782ft-high) Mt Hiei-zan and
the vast Enryaku-ji complex is a good way to spend a half
day hiking, poking around temples and enjoying the atmosphere
of a key site in Japanese history. Enryaku-ji was founded
in 788 by Saicho, also known as Dengyo-daishi, the priest
who established the Tenzai school. At its height, the
temple possessed some 3000 buildings and an army of thousands
of sohei, or warrior monks. Today only three pagodas and
120 minor temples remain, but they are still breathtaking.
Getting
Around
Because central Kyoto is laid out in logical grids,
it's an easy city to get around by public transport, cycling
or walking. There is an intricate network of bus routes
at a moderate price, and many of the routes used by visitors
have announcements in English. There is also an efficient
subway, without doubt the quickest and easiest way to
travel between the north and the south. In 1997, after
8 years under construction (only 3 years late and twice
over-budget), the city completed the much awaited Tozai
line, which traverses town from east to west and then
south-east. Though for many the new line has brought greater
convenience, one sad casualty of the project was the removal
of one of Kyoto's last streetcar lines, along Sanjo-dori.
Getting around by car is less enticing, given Kyoto's
traffic problems, and you will almost always do better
on a bicycle or public transport. Unless you have specific
needs, don't even entertain the idea of renting a car
to tour the city - far more cost and headache than any
traveller needs (plus parking ticket fines start at US$140!).
However, a car can be practical for touring some of the
outlying rural areas; remember, drive on the left hand
side of the road in Japan.
Kyoto is a great city to explore by bicycle; it's mostly
flat and there is a new bike path running the length of
the Kamo-gawa. Unfortunately, it has some of the world's
worst public facilities for bike parking, and many bikes
end up stolen or impounded during regular sweeps of the
city (in particular near entrances to train/subway stations).
Walking is often the best way to explore the city, taking
away the cost and concerns of traffic and parking and
allowing you the chance to wander through narrow back
streets where you're far more likely to catch a glimpse
of old Kyoto. |
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